The John Lobb factory is among the most renowned manufacturers in Northampton, a city that earned its reputation as a core of the shoe industry in the seventeenth century. Although it became part of the Hermes Group in 1976, the factory is dedicated to preserving the methods developed in the Victorian era.
Although machinery exists, tradition dominates. For instance, lasers are not used to cut leather. Instead, lasers create plastic patterns, which are handed to clickers. Their title comes from the distinctive “click” of the knife striking the cutting table. With feather knives, they cut the hides manually.
Production is carefully restricted, with only 450–500 pairs made each week. This approach gives the sense of one-of-a-kind production. Employees often handle many designs in a single day, instead of repeating one routine step like in mass-production plants. Every shoe is built with Goodyear welted technology, allowing the soles to be replaced without damaging the upper.
In line with Hermes, John Lobb sources the best-quality hides, particularly from young French calf hides. Only about sixty percent is usable for uppers, while the remainder becomes minor leather goods.
The collection combines timeless classics with modern updates. The City II Oxfords, for instance, now feature a sleeker silhouette. The Sennen double monks gained refined buckles and a more robust foundation. The Lopez loafers, introduced in the 1950s, were updated with new colors and rubber soles. Newer icons include the Porth sneakers and the Levah sneakers, which are produced yearly in a mix of colors and materials.
Through its dedication to craftsmanship, John Lobb continues to be a benchmark in English shoemaking.
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